querciabella palafreno 2019 750ml

As the name suggests, Palafreno is Querciabella’s parade horse, our purebred Merlot from a particular site in Ruffoli whose soil, sun exposure, and cool microclimate combine perfectly to nourish the gentle nature of this grape. But, of course, a wine like this doesn’t just “happen”: it’s a labour of love that requires patience and endless skills, only worth optimal vintages.

Tuscany has long proved to produce outstanding Merlots. Merlot is the region’s second most planted red grape after Sangiovese. However, at Querciabella, it initially served as a partnering variety in the international blend of Camartina to marry Cabernet Sauvignon’s robust structure and Sangiovese’s rustic character. Until the 1998 vintage, it also concurred to ameliorate our Chianti Classico Riserva. 

The idea behind Palafreno formed at the turn of the millennium: crafting a wine so exclusive that it could showcase the world-class value of our vineyards in Ruffoli. The inaugural vintages of 2000 and 2001, which included Sangiovese in the blend, met immediate success when they hit the market. In the two years that followed, though, we realised the blissful combination of loose galestro schistous clay soils, a fresher microclimate and the southern aspect of our Cipresso and Marrone vineyards allowed for that slow ripening that Merlot demands to flourish. Thanks to punctual picking, selective micro-vinification and patient maturation, we worked toward enhancing the varietal’s territorial delivery until we could no longer keep it out of the spotlight. Since the vintage 2004, we have exclusively dedicated our small batch production of Merlot to making Palafreno a 100% varietal wine.

WINEMAKING

As growers we must understand the terroir point by point when making a wine like Palafreno. The grapes from higher up the slope show distinct concentration and intensity, whereas those from the lower sides, richer in clay, have a fresher, more delicate delivery. In the cellar, moderation rules to bring out these subtleties and combine them in the final wine. Gentle extraction during fermentation preserves fresh fruit and avoids the bitterness that Merlot can sometimes give. Maceration lasts about two weeks, and after the malolactic fermentation completes, we rack the wine into French oak barrels, thirty per cent new, for maturation. After about 18 months, the final blend of Palafreno is bottled and given another year of bottle-ageing until release.

VINTAGE 2019

The 2019 vintage allowed us to make something exceptional. After a mild and dry winter, a cool, wet spring triggered a relatively slow-growing season. Yet, the flowering and fruit set went well, anticipating a phenomenal harvest in quality and quantity. The first week of May saw the temperatures soar, and this heat continued through the Summer. It may have been torrid at times, but we had no problems with drought stress thanks to the abundant water reserves. September brought the desired day/night temperature differences and an excellent phenolic ripeness with beautiful skin-to-pulp ratios. We hand-harvested the 2 hectares of Merlot on the 19th of September.

TASTING NOTES

The intense ruby-red colour introduces Palafreno’s assertive stance. At first, it charms you with the generous fruity aromas – cherry, cassis and plum – with the fragrance of flowers and Mediterranean herbs. Then, a profusion of spices comes to the fore. On the palate, it is simply magnificent, with a texture reminiscent of the fine-grained nose. Silky, intense, full-bodied, but finely balanced, with layers of dark chocolate and roasted coffee growing on the vibrant, savoury finish.

FOOD PAIRING

With Palafreno 2019, you’d like a dish that stands up to the intense flavours but also allows you to focus on what you are drinking. The typical notes of the varietal, which are particularly charming this vintage, respond very well to the warm-yet-cooling flavours of spices like fennel seeds, caraway, star anise or five-spice. Caramelised root vegetables, onions, roasted pumpkin or butternut squash, and beets flavoured with tarragon, marjoram, and basil bring out the wine’s vibrant red fruit. Deeply savoury tastes open many attractive doors for food pairing, including a mushroom-walnut pâté, polenta with grilled mushrooms and herbs, a caramelised onion tart or simple pasta with truffles.

CRITICAL ACCLAIM

V98, Vinous

"The 2019 Palafreno, 100% Merlot from Greve’s Ruffoli district, is stunning, not to mention one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted here. Silky, plush and exceptionally vivid in the glass, the Palafreno possesses breathtaking beauty that captivates all the senses. At this early stage, 2019 is all primary dark fruit, but the layers will start to open with cellaring. Readers who can find it should not hesitate. It’s a real head-turner.".

 

JS95, James Suckling

"This is very polished and structured with a finesse to the tannins which spread across the palate. It’s full-bodied with fine fruit and a driven finish. It needs three or four years to soften and open. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Try after 2025."

JG95, John Gilman

"Querciabella’s Super Tuscan bottling crafted solely from merlot is beautiful in the 2019 vintage. The wine is fairly ripe in this vintage, coming in at 14.5% octane, but shows off its signature purity and precision on both the nose and palate. The beautifully refined bouquet wafts from the glass in a mix of sweet dark berries, black plums, tobacco leaf, violets, a gorgeous base of soil, a hint of Tuscan herb tones and a deft foundation of cedary new oak. On the palate, the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a plush core of fruit, excellent mineral undertow, ripe tannins, tangy acids and excellent length and grip on the superbly balanced finish. Like every vintage of Palafreno I have been fortunate enough to taste, 2019 is built for the long haul and will demand some cellaring to soften up its tannins. But, it will be exceptional once it is ready to drink. (Drink between 2032 - 2075)"

750ml Bottle